NAMIBIA
WELCOME TO THE MAGNIFICANT
LAND OF CONTRAST ...
Namibia, located between the cold Atlantic and the scorching Kalahari, is a land of real contrasts. Thecountry generally has a desert-type climate with the Namib Desert and Coastal Plains along the coast and the arid Central plateau, yet bushveld ca be found in the Kavango and Caprivi areas in the bnorth. The county is dominated by the 80-million year old Namib Desert, which extends along Namibia’s entire Atlantic coast. Within the desert the terrain varies from the gravel plains of Windhoek to the massive, undulating dunes of Sossusvlei.
 The Caprivi in the north however has lush woodland and revering forest, as well as seasonal flood plains. This is the home of the Etosha National Park, with its series of waterholes that guarantee some spectacular game-viewing. Tourists looking for game-viewing experiences can do so even in the arid regions, while the Cape Cross Seal Reserve on the central coast which is home to 100,000Cape Fur Seals, is worth a visit. The capital of Namibia, Windhoek, still retains its Germanic colonial air while the Bavarian village of Luderitz, lying on the windswept coast, with its old German-style delicatessens and coffee shops has a distinct air of timelessness. Natural phenomena to see include the incredible Fish river Canyon, the massive dolerite boulders of Giant’s playground, the Quiver Tree Forest and the nature parks along the eerie Skeleton Coast. The currency of Namibia is the Namibian Dollar.
WINDHOEK
Windhoek is Namibia’s capital city and lies in the heart of the Central Highlands in an airy basin surrounded by rolling mountains. Set in the geographical heart of Namibia, it serves as the road and rail crossroads and the country’s commercial nerve centre. Windhoek has only existed for just over a century. The modern name Windhoek, or ‘windy corner’, was corrupted from the original ‘winterhoek’ during the German colonial occupation. At that time, it became the headquarters for the German Schutztruppe, which was ostensibly charged with brokering peace between the warring Herero and Nama.
It has a combination of innovative modern constructions and old German colonial buildings. In the centre of town is a pedestrian walkway with shops and market stalls, whose wares are displayed on the ground. Several cafes in this area make for great ‘people-watching’ and its people reflect the country’s ethnic mix. It gets quite hot between December and February, but owing to its high altitude, humidity is low and nights are pleasantly cooled by a light breeze. It does rain quite heavily in summer but the evaporation rate is extremely high so it does not stay damp for long. Winters however, can get very cold at night with some frost in low-lying areas, but the days a re warm, sunny and cloudless. As capital cities go, this is one of the safest and most relaxed in Southern Africa and a perfect place to start or finish a Namibian holiday. Travelers who brought their clubs with them can have a round of golf at the exclusive Windhoek Country Club Resort.
THINGS TO SEE & DO
HOFMEYER WALK
The Hofmeyer Walk walking track through Klein Windhoek Valley starts from either Sinclair Street or Uhland Street and head south through the bushveld to finish at the point where Orban Streets becomes Anderson Street. It takes about an hour and affords a panoramic view over the city, as well as a look at the Aloe littoralis aloes, which characterize the hillside vegetation. Hikers have recently been robbed. Don’t go alone and avoid carrying valuables when going along this route.
CHRISTUSKIRCHE
One of Windhoek’s most recognizable landmarks, the 1907 Christuskirche stands at the top of Fidel Castro Street. This unusual building, constructed of local sandstone as designed by Gottlieb Redecker in neogothic and Art Nouveau styles. To see the interior, pick up the key during business hours from the church office on Fidel Castro Street.
ALTE FESTE & THE OWELA MUSEUM
Windhoek’s oldest surviving building, the whitewashed ramparts of Alte Fest (National Museum of Namibia), date from 1890 to 1892. It originally served as the headquarters of the Schutztruppe, which arrived in 1889, but now houses the Historical Section of the State Museum. The other half of the State Museum, known as the Owela Museum features exhibits that focus on Namibia’s natural and anthropological history.
NATIONAL ART GALLERY
The national Art Galley contains a permanent collection of works reflecting Namibia’s historical and natural scene. It also hosts visiting exhibitions.
TINTENPALAST
The Tintenpalast, now the Parliament building, was designed by architect Gottlieb Redecker and built in 1912 to 1913 as the administrative headquarters for German South-West Africa. The name, “ink palace”, honors the ink spent on the typically bureaucratic paperwork it generated. It has also served as the nerve centre for all subsequent governments, including the present one. On the lawn sits Windhoek’s first post-Independence monument, this depicts Herero chief Hosea Kutako, known for his vociferous opposition to South African rule.
OTHER HISTORIC BUILDINGS
Near the corner of Luderitz and Park Streets, take a look at the Old Magistrates’ Court. It was built in 1897 to 1898 as quarters for Carl Ludwig, the state architect, and now houses the Namibia Conservatorium.
Down Park Street towards Robert Mugabe Avenue lies South-West Africa House, now called the state House. The site was once graced by the residence of the German colonial governor, but it was razed in 1958 and replaced by the present building. After independence, it became the official residence of the Namibian president.
Robert Mugabe Avenue affords good city views and colonial architecture. The Kaiserliche Realschule, Windhoek’s first German primary school, dates from 1907 to 1908. The curious turret with wooden slats, which was part of the original building, was designed to provide ventilation. The Old Supreme Court is a gabled brick structure which dates from 1908.
Further south is the Turnhalle designed by the Otto Busch and built in 1909 as a gymnasium. On 1 September 1975, however, the first Constitutional Conference on Independence for Southwest Africa (subsequently known as the Turnhalle Conference) was held here. In 1980s, it hosted political summits and debates which later resulted in Namibian Independence.
The Classic 1902Oode voorpost originally held the colonial surveyors’ offices, where government maps were stored in fireproof archives. It was restored in 1988 and now houses a portion of the Ministry of Finance.
Southward along Independence Avenue are three colonial buildings designed by architect Willi Sander. The southernmost building was built n 1902 as the Kronprinz Hotel. In 1920, Heinrich Gathemann bought it and converted it into a private business, to adjoin Gathemann House next door, which he had built in 1913. The northernmost building is the Erkrath building, which dates from 1910.
TRAIN STATION & TRANS-NAMIB TRANSPORT MUSEUM
Windhoek’s Cape Dutch-style train station dates from 1912 and near the entrance sits the German steam locomotive Poor Old Joe, shipped to Swakopmund in 1899 and reassembled for the run to Windhoek. The small but worthwhile Trans-namib Transport Museum upstairs in the station, outlines the history of Namibian transport, particularly the railroads.
POST STREET MALL & METEORITE EXHIBIT
The throbbing heart of the Windhoek shopping district is the bizarrely colorful Post Street mall, and its odd architecture could have provided a set for the film Dick Tracy. It’s lined with vendors selling curious, artwork, clothing and other tourist items, and in the centre is a prominent display of 33 meteorites from the Gibeon meteor shower, which deposited at least 21 tonnes of mostly ferrous extraterrestrial boulders around Gibeon in southern Namibia.
AROUND WINDHOEK
DAAN VILJOEN GAME PARK
The beautiful Daan Viljoen Game Park sits in the Khomas Hochland about 18km west of Windhoek. Because there are no dangerous animals, hikers can wander freely through lovely desert-like hills and valleys. You’ll almost certainly see gemsboks, kudus, mountain zebras, springboks, hartebeests, elands and up to 200 bird species. A 3km Wag-‘n Bietjie Trail follows a dry riverbed , 9 km rooibos Trail crosses hills and ridges and affords great views back to Windhoek in the distance. The 34 km Sweet-Thorn Trail circuits the empty eastern reaches of the reserve. One group of three to 12 people is permitted on this trail each day. Daan Viljoen Rest Camp sits on the shores of Augeigas Dam; there’s also a restaurant further along the road. No motorcycles are permitted.
GOBABIS Cenral East
Gobabis, 120km from the Botswana border, serves as a logical stopover along the Trans-Kalahari Highway. The name is Nama for ‘the place of strife’, although a slight misspelling (‘Goabbis’) would render it ‘place of elephants’, which most locals prefer. The town isn’t much to look at; the only historic building is the old military hospital, the Lazarett, which once served as a town museum.
DORDABIS
In Dordabis, the heart of Namibia’s Karakul country, it’s worth visiting. Arnhem Cave, the longest cave system in Namibia (2800m), was discovered by farmer DN Bekker in 1930 and was originally used as a source of bat guano fertilizer. This dry cave lacks large stalagmites or stalactites, but it is home to five species of bat and words can’t describe the first view from its depths.
BUITEPOS
Buitepos, a wide spot in the desert with a border crossing.
NORTH-CENTRAL NAMIBIA
Almost everything along the tourist trail in North-Central Namibia is aimed at ushering visitors into Namibia’s most popular destination, Etosha National Park, which is one of the world’s pre-eminent wildlife areas.
OKAHANDJA
Okahandja, the Herero administrative centre, is best-known for its two immense craft markets. At the southern end of Church Street is Friedenskirche, the Rhenish mission church, which was consecrated in 1876. Both in the churchyard and over the road are the graves of several historical figures, including those of Herero leader Willem Maherero, Nama leader Jan Jonker Afrikaner, and Hosea Kutako, the ‘father of Namibian Independence’. Okahandja’s big events are Maherero Day in August and the gathering of the Green Flag Herero people in June.
GROSS BARMEN
The former mission station of Gross Barmen, 26km southwest of Okahandja, has hot springs, short hikes and fine bird-watching around the adjacent dam.
KARIBIB
The rustic ranching town of Karibib began as a station on the narrow-gauge rail line between Windhoek and Swakopmund. It’s now dominated by the Palisandro marble quarries, which annually yield over 1200 tonnes of aragonite, the world’s hardest and highest-quality marble.
OMARURU
Dusty Omaruru, beside the shady Omaruru Riverbed, has a real outback feel to it. For a view over the town, you can climb Captain Franke’s tower, which was erected in honour of German Captain Victor Franke, who defended the Colonial town in 1904 against a Herero attack. The Rhenish mission station constructed in 1872 by missionary Gottlieb Viehe, now houses a small town museum. Pick up keys to either place at the Central Hotel in the town centre. A highlight is the Kristall Kellerei. This, Namibia’s only winery, produces colombard and ruby cabernet, and offers wine-tasting and great meals just 4km from town on the D2328. Don’t miss its wonderful mineral water, oasis, which is sold only in Omaruru. Each year on the weekend nearest 10 October, the White Flag Herero people hold a festive procession in Omaruru. A worthwhile day trip from Omaruru would be to the Otjihaenamparero dinosaur footprints, 23km east of Kalkfeld, which features the 170-million-year-old tracks of a three-toed dinosaur.
OUTJO
Bougainvillea-decked Outjo, settled in 1880, was never a mission station, but in the mid-1890s it did a short, uneventful stint as a German garrison town. For visitors it best serves as a staging point for trips to Okaukeujo, in Etosha National Park. The 1899 military residence, the Franke House, now houses the Outjo Museum.
GAMKARAB CAVE
Gamkarab Cave, 50km northeast of Outjo, is replete with lovely stalagmites and stalactities, and the surrounding area has an abundance of hiking trails, unusual vegetation and the world’s only source of pietersite.
OTJIWARONGO
Otjiwarongo (‘the pleasant place’ in Herero) lies at the junction of the roads between Windhoek, Swakopmund, Outjo, Etosha and the Golden Triangle. At the train station sits Locomotive No 41, which was manufactured by the Henschel company of Kassel, Germany, in 1912 and was brought to Namibia to haul ore between the Tsumeb mines and the port at Swakopmund. The Otjiwarongo Crocodile Ranch, beside the caravan park, provides a marginally interesting attraction.
GROOTFONTEIN
With a pronounced colonial feel, Grootfontein (Big Spring) has an air of uprightness and respectability, with local limestone construction and avenues of jacaranda trees that bloom in September. It was the water that attracted the earliest travelers and in 1885, the Dorsland (Thirst Land) trekkers set up the short-lived Republic of Upingtonia. By 1887, the settlement was gone, but six years later Grootfontein was selected as the headquarters for the German South-West Africa Company, thanks to the area’s agricultural potential and mineral wealth. In 1896, the German Schutztruppe (the Imperial Army) constructed a fort and it became a garrison town.
GERMAN FORT & MUSEUM
In 1968 it was only a last-minute public appeal that saved the old German fort from demolition, and in 1974 it was restored to house the municipal museum
HOBA METEORITE
Near the Hoba Farm, 25 km west of Grootfontein, the world’s largest meteorite was discovered in 1920 by hunter Jacobus Brits. This cuboid bit of space debris is composes of 82% iron, 16% nickel and 0.8% cobalt, along with traces of other metals. No one known when it fell to earth (it’s though to have been around 80,000 years ago), but since it weighs in at 54,000 kg it must have made a hell of a thump.
TSUMEB
Tsumeb, which is perhaps Namibia’s loveliest town, enjoys quiet streets lined with flame trees and jacarandas and surroundings that have geologists salivating. Of the 184 minerals that have been discovered here, 10 are found nowhere else in the world, and mineral collectors justifiably rank the area as one of the world’s great natural wonders. The town’s name is derived from a melding of the San word tsoumsoub (to dig in loose ground’) and the Herero Otjisume (‘place of frogs’). Tsumeb isn’t really known for little croakers, but the red, brown, green and grey streaks created by minerals of the area resemble dried frog spawn, and both the frogs and digging equipment appear on the town’s crest.
ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK
Etosha National Park, the “Great White Place of Dry Water”, takes in approximately 20,000sq km surrounding its namesake, the vast white and greenish-coloured Etosha pan. This vast park protects 114 mammal species, as well as 340 bird species, 16 reptiles and amphibians, one fish species and countless insects.
The first Europeans in Etosha were traders and explorers John Andersson and Francis Galton, who arrived by wagon at Namutoni in 1851, but Etosha didn’t attract the interest of tourists or conservationists until after the turnoff the 20th century, when the governor of German South-West Africa, Dr F von Lindequist, became concerned over diminishing animal numbers and founded a 99,526-sq-km reserve. In subsequent years, the park boundaries were altered several times, and by 1970 Etosha had been pared down to its present 23,175sq km.
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